Behind the Climb: Colin Haley & Tyler Karow on the Southeast Ridge of Cerro Torre | Patagonia
[HPP] Alex CooperFebruary 11, 202622 min
16 connections·21 entities in this video→Cerro Torre Southeast Ridge Ascent
- 🚀 Climbers Colin Haley and Tyler Karow successfully ascended the Southeast Ridge (Filo Sureste) of Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
- 🎯 The route is considered a modern hard classic in Chaltén, combining rock, ice, and mixed climbing.
- 💡 Colin Haley had made three prior unsuccessful attempts on the route, with two ending in the ice towers due to weather and one at the headwall.
- 🔑 Colin specifically sought to lead the headwall pitches, as it was the only section of the route he hadn't previously led.
Climber Dynamics & Strategy
- 🧩 Tyler specializes in technical alpine climbing and efficient big wall ascents, while Colin excels in alpine, ice, snow, and mixed terrain.
- 🛠️ Colin emphasized meticulous tent platform preparation for optimal rest during bivouacs, sometimes taking over an hour.
- ⚡ The team opted for an 11 PM start, climbing the first five hours in the dark to reach the ice towers in optimal conditions and avoid a cold, verglassed headwall.
Overcoming Route Challenges
- ⚠️ On the "hastening crack," they encountered rhyme ice, a dense, chunky frozen formation requiring extensive hacking to reach the underlying rock.
- 🧊 Tyler navigated a 5.10 free climbing section on the hastening crack, requiring a switch from mountaineering boots to climbing shoes.
- 📈 Observations in the ice towers revealed significant melting over the past decade, making the section more mixed and highlighting evidence of climate change.
- 💧 The headwall pitches were intensely wet due to midday sun melting snow slopes above, making the climbing more challenging than anticipated.
Mental Fortitude & Descent
- 🧠 Colin maintains a pessimistic outlook to avoid disappointment, while Tyler embraces an optimistic "over stoke" approach.
- 📌 The descent involved complex rappelling in Patagonia, characterized by strong winds, challenging terrain, and the need for frequent anchor building.
- ✅ They made a strategic bivouac at Cole Patients before completing the final stages of the descent.
The Value of Alpine Climbing
- 💬 The climbers emphasized that the primary reward of mountain climbing is the memories created, as there are no tangible outcomes.
- 🎥 Filming during the ascent served as a crucial tool for reliving and preserving these special experiences.
- ✨ This ascent marked Colin's ninth climb of Cerro Torre, returning to the mountain after a nine-year hiatus.
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Transcript78 segments
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What’s Discussed
Cerro TorreSoutheast Ridge (Filo Sureste)PatagoniaAlpine ClimbingMixed ClimbingRhyme IceHeadwall ClimbingIce TowersClimate Change ImpactsRappelling TechniquesBivouac StrategyWeather WindowsTeamwork in ClimbingMountaineeringChaltén
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